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Preserving Sacred Places: Makapu'u

SurfRider Oahu

I arrive at Makapuʻu beach almost every week, just before the sun beams burst over the horizon. Most times I have this sacred sweep of sand and surf all to myself during that first hour of light. It is a place of meditation as I walk along the seasonally changing mounds of sands, or glide and tumble through the curls, tubes, and barrels that give me the rides that have forever changed my life.

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